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Were Renaissance women merely passive and voiceless subjects in the cultures of portraiture through which they were represented? Did they have the opportunity to challenge the prevailing visual tropes that reproduced gender stereotypes? Did they create iconographical programmes for their own social and political ends?

This collection of interdisciplinary essays examines the representation of women at the intersection between portraiture, literature, drama, heritage and material culture in Renaissance Britain. It explores how power, politics and patronage manifested across text, cultural inscription and 'portraiture' – defined in its broadest sense as a cultural artefact expressive of the female image and identity. Contributors cover (self-)portraits, miniatures, engravings, sculptures, embroideries, murals, emblems, illuminated manuscripts, jewellery, coins, curated collections, theatrical props, calligraphy and other decorative and architectural features.

Bringing together art historians, curators, heritage specialists and scholars of early modern history and literature, this volume situates women as the active subjects and creators of 'cultures of portraiture'. It reveals how female power was negotiated through the royal icon; how women used patronage, pedagogy and encryption to forge female networks and navigate the dangerous worlds of religious and courtly factionalism; and how art, drama and literature reflected anxieties around women's creative agency. It demonstrates that these practices were not purely localised, but that women's portraiture connected England – conceptually, materially and ideologically – to Scotland, Wales, Ireland, France, Spain, Rome, the Netherlands, Africa, Persia and the Islamic world; that women employed an 'activist intermediality' to re-define their 'portraits' as tools for public identity-building, political commentary, social disruption and cross-national dialogue.

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Table of Contents

Notes on Contributors

List of Illustrations

Introduction: Towards an Activist Intermediality: The Legacies of Portraiture's Feminisms
Yasmin Arshad (University College London, UK) and Chris Laoutaris (The Shakespeare Institute, University of Birmingham, UK)

Part 1: Negotiating Royal Power: Propaganda, Encryption and the Visual Rhetoric of Persuasion

1. Susanna Horenbout and the Politics of Illumination at the Court of Henry VIII
Susan E. James (Independent Scholar and Art Historian, UK)

2. Joint Iconography for Joint Sovereigns: Mary Queen of Scots, James VI of Scotland, and the Campaign for the Association, c. 1578–1584
Susan Doran (Jesus College, University of Oxford, UK) and Paulina Kewes (Jesus College, University of Oxford, UK)

3. Elizabeth I at Sixty
Helen Hackett (University College London, UK) and Karen Hearn (University College London, UK; formerly Curator of 16th- and 17th-Century British Art at Tate Britain, UK)

4. “Still Renewing Wronges”?: Politics, Identity and Encryption in Gheeraerts' 'Persian Lady' Portrait
Chris Laoutaris (The Shakespeare Institute, University of Birmingham, UK) and Yasmin Arshad (University College London, UK)

5. 'A Moor to a Maiden': The Presence of Black Africans in the Portraiture of Louise de Kérouaille, Duchess of Portsmouth
Ana Howie (Cornell University, USA)

Part 2: Inter-Visual Interventions: Identity, Agency and Confrontations with the Self

6. Embroidery and Self-Portraiture
Jane Stevenson (Campion Hall, University of Oxford, UK)

7. The dead shadow: Portraiture, Murder and Female agency in the early modern dumb show
Keir Elam (University of Bologna, Italy)

8. Capitalizing on Beauty: Blazons and Portraiture in Early Modern English Verse
Jaime Goodrich (Wayne State University, Michigan, USA)

9. The Portrait of a Lady from the Islamic World in Early Modern England: 'Teresia, Countess Shirley', by William Larkin, c. 1611–13
Bernadette Andrea (University of California, Santa Barbara, USA)

10. Flights of Fancy and Practical Matters: Creativity in Self-Portraiture of Margaret Cavendish and Hannah Woolley
Anna (Anya) Riehl Bertolet (Auburn University, USA)

Part 3: Visualizing Women's Networks: Patronage, Curating and Collecting

11. Catholicae Virgines nos Sumus Mutare vel Tempore Spernimus: Helena Wintour's Subversive Embroideries
Janet Graffius (Curator of Collections and Historic Libraries, Stonyhurst, UK)

12. Mary Ward and the Figuring of Female Networks
Caroline Bicks (University of Maine, USA)

13. Locating the Cavendish women in Ben Jonson's The New Inn and the murals at Bolsover Castle
Crosby Stevens (University of Sheffield; formerly Curator of Art for English Heritage, UK)

14. Richard Crashaw's Lady Margaret Beaufort in the Liber Memorialis at St John's College, Cambridge
Anna Clark (University of Oxford and the National Portrait Gallery, UK)

Select Bibliography

Index

Product details

The Arden Shakespeare
Published 30 Apr 2026
Format Ebook (PDF)
Edition 1st
Pages 336
ISBN 9781350320727
Imprint The Arden Shakespeare
Illustrations 16 colour, 44 bw illus
Series Arden Studies in Early Modern Material Culture
Publisher Bloomsbury Publishing

About the contributors

Series Editor

Lena Cowen Orlin

LENA COWEN ORLIN is Professor of English at George…

Series Editor

Catherine Richardson

Catherine Richardson is Professor, and Pro-Vice-Ch…

Series Editor

Evelyn Tribble

Evelyn Tribble is Professor of English at the Univ…

Series Editor

Helen Smith

Helen Smith is Professor of Renaissance literature…

Anthology Editor

Yasmin Arshad

Yasmin Arshad is a former Honorary Research Fellow…

Anthology Editor

Chris Laoutaris

Chris Laoutaris is Associate Professor at The Shak…

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