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Fashion and Politics in China’s Cultural Revolution

Everyday Dress in Guangdong and Beyond

Fashion and Politics in China’s Cultural Revolution cover

Fashion and Politics in China’s Cultural Revolution

Everyday Dress in Guangdong and Beyond

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Pre-order. Available Apr 15 2027
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Description

Fashion and Politics in China's Cultural Revolution introduces English-speaking readers to Peidong Sun's pioneering research on clothing choices during the Cultural Revolution (1966–1976) and the forces that shaped them. Based on fieldwork conducted in Guangdong in the early twenty-first century, the book offers a rare perspective on the interplay of fashion, politics, and global influences during one of the most turbulent periods in modern Chinese history. First published in Chinese in 2013, this English-language edition has been abridged and revised for a new readership.

Breaking with long-held stereotypes of Maoist China as a nation of “blue ants,” all dressed alike, this groundbreaking study reveals a diversified sartorial landscape. It identifies three major factors shaping dress over time: political status, creative adaptation in the face of material scarcity and political constraints, and the influence of the outside world through Guangdong's proximity to Hong Kong and Macao. Cross-border movements of people-including foreigners attending the Canton Fair and relatives visiting family members in Guangdong-facilitated the circulation of styles, ideas, and consumer aspirations.

Crucially, the book also makes a significant intervention in fashion theory. Western fashion theory by and large overlooks the role of the state. Sun brings the state back in. Individual agency, gender identity, and class differentiation were all factors in clothing choices during the Cultural Revolution, but the state was foremost among fashion agents. This book shows its pervasive presence in everyday life, extending to the realm of dress.

Table of Contents

List of figures
List of tables

Translator's acknowledgements
Author's acknowledgements

About this book
by Antonia Finnane

Introduction

1. Everyday fashions in the Cultural Revolution
Military uniforms
The Zhongshan suit and its variations


2. The politics of consumption
Consumption as politics
Consumption as economy
Consumption as culture


3. The politics of clothing
Clothing as a tool for expressing revolutionary taste
Clothing as a tool for constructing a revolutionary image


4. Disciplining bizarre clothing and outlandish dress
'Bizarre clothing and outlandish dress':types and characteristics
Criteria for 'bizarre clothing' and thresholds for legitimate dress
Regulating 'bizarre clothing and outlandish dress'
The production and circulation of fashion under authoritarianism
The State as cultural broker
Postscript


5. Practising everyday sartorial resistance
Overcoming scarcity
Transcending monotony
Resisting 'gender submersion'
Fashion influences from the outside
Dress resistance and political legitimacy


Conclusion

Afterword

Appendix I: The interviewees
Appendix II: Standard dress styles during the Cultural Revolution
Appendix III: Character list for Chinese terms

Bibliography

Notes

Index

Product details

Published Apr 15 2027
Format Hardback
Edition 1st
Pages 224
ISBN 9781350520066
Imprint Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Illustrations 30 bw illus
Dimensions 234 x 156 mm
Series Dress Cultures
Publisher Bloomsbury Publishing

About the contributors

Author

Peidong Sun

Peidong Sun is Associate Professor of History and…

Translator

Antonia Finnane

Antonia Finnane is an honorary professorial fellow…

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